Hi Pete,
Short answer: The fork will work in your frame but you may or may not need a new lower bearing depending on if your lower steer tube taper is a 1.5 or a 1.25. Our fork is a 1.5 lower bearing.
-Rodeo
There are two options. Zip ties work perfectly, and there are also small plastic C-clips that snap into the guides perfectly. Those come with each new frameset. If yours was missing those let us know.
Rear brake hose exits the lower downtube, passes under the bb shell, and attaches to the first seat stay guide. There are also two holes on the bottom of the BB shell that are threaded, and if desired a cable guide can be mounted on those for one more attachment point, but we don’t build that way by default.
Hi Nate. That is correct. The 45 offset that we currently sell is technically a 3.1 and is already the lighter weight, it just doesn’t have the integrated routing option. There was a Spork 3.0 45mm offset in 2019-2021 that had the current shape but weighed 600+ gr. The 3.2 45 offset will not weigh less than the 3.1.
Hello,
We are happy to ship internationally. Framsets are shipped at a flat rate $150 fee.
We can also install a bottom bracket before shipping. We can quote that based on the BB you would like to have installed. Just email bikes@rodeo-labs.com with any specifics.
Thanks!
Minimum thread engagement stated by SRAM is 5 to 7mm; couldn’t find Shimano as quickly. Our slider is 17.5mm thick. So minimum bolt length is 24mm (washer compensation), up to a max of probably around 30mm before you would bottom out on the inside of the caliper and not be able to tighten it down.
We have seen TD4 built with Fleecer Ridge, but we haven’t built any in-house to verify how much clearance remains. It will no doubt be tight, so I would consider that a size that I would ride in dry conditions, not muddy conditions. 2.1″ is much safer.
Hi Mark.
Yes it is compatible with smart trainers. We haven’t personally used one this way but customers do.
-SF
Hi Colby,
Setting the slider / wheel position is very easy. Your caliper method would be effective and also precise (when measuring from the front of the slider, but what I do and have always done is simply set one slider where I want it and leave the other slider loose, then center the tire between the two chainstays using the play in the non-torqued slider. When the wheel is where I want it I torque the other slider to spec and lock in my desired tire position. There is no functional need to be ultra precise with this measurement, the bike will track and ride perfectly straight even if you are slightly non-centered in either direction – we tested this extensively far before the bikes were ever put into production.
Set screws are mostly there for dialing in chain tension (or previously also belt tension), but they can be used to help micro adjust slider position. In theory they could provide some anti-slip if your sliders aren’t fully torqued, but many people don’t even run the set screws and have no issues with dropouts slipping if they are properly torqued. Do be sure to keep those set screws greased when in the frame so that corrosion doesn’t go to work on them.
-Stephen
You may run wide cranks from Sram or Shimano on Flaanimal, but they are not required and the frame wasn’t designed around them, so we prefer not to, as it adds to the chain line unnecessarily.
